Alain Dutournier is one of the world's greatest chefs, and why this restaurant has not gotten three stars from Guide Michelin remains one of the world's culinary mysteries. Dutournier is a man of the season, and whatever is in season will be presented in an innovative, creative manner. In early September, that means ceps, which he prepared in assorted ways (including cep pudding, raw, marinated ceps, and deep-fried ceps) and offered in a very artistic fashion. We then had some brilliant langoustines and a gorgeously intense lamb dish. Many other superbly presented, artistic, creative, flavorful goodies came my way during the course of the meal. This restaurant offers brilliant, creative cuisine full of flavor offered in a beautiful, quiet, dignified, intimate dining room. The warmth and professionalism of the service is equally admirable.

As for the wines, one of my favorite non-vintage Rosé Champagnes, Billecart Salmon, offered fresh notes of framboise in a medium-bodied, crisp, pure style in keeping with all the champagnes from this well-run house. Perhaps the greatest Riesling made in France, the 2000 Trimbach Riesling Clos Ste. Hune was a surprising light gold with a greenish hue. Rich, full-bodied, and dry, it offered up notes of orange marmalade, lemon oil, and steely wet rocks in a powerful, intense style. The 2000 seems to be on a faster evolutionary track than most vintages. That was followed by a beautiful 1998 La Nerthe Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée des Cadettes. Still dominated by its Mourvèdre component along with a touch of new oak (this is one of the few Châteauneuf du Papes to use all small barrels), it is a modern-styled, rich, young, primary, impressive wine. A fabulous bottle provided by wine board bon vivant and gourmand, Jeff Leve, the 1988 Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf du Pape Réserve des Céléstins exhibited a slight amber edge to its dark ruby color along with gorgeous notes of roasted meats, Provençal herbs, licorice, sweet cherries, and cedar. This beauty should continue to drink well for 10-15 years. We finished with a spectacularly young, vibrant, full-bodied 1985 Guigal Côte Rôtie La Landonne. Another bottle provided by the generous Jeff Leve, it revealed hints of truffles, damp earth, blackberries, licorice, and tapenade. This stunning 1985 tasted much younger than a 21-year old wine. Altogether, this was a brilliant night with fabulous food and wine.