Chez Josephine (also known as Chez Dumonet)

This sensational bistro offers a glorious selection of Bordeaux at relatively high prices (even more painful than usual because of the weak American dollar). The cuisine is fabulous, with the best beef Burgundy served with tagliatelli noodles that I have ever tasted. It offered “melt in your mouth” richness. I don’t know how the chef gets the big chunks of beef so caramelized on the outside, yet so tender and moist on the interior.

I splurged on the wines. We had a nondescript house Champagne that I had never before seen, but indulged ourselves with a magnum of 1961 Grand Puy Lacoste. While not the best bottle I have had of this wine, it was in good shape, revealing classic cedar, spice box, sweet cherry, and loamy, dusty soil notes, medium body, and some tannin to still be resolved. It is clearly a wine just past its apogee. We all enjoyed it, but I had hoped for a bit more, especially given the price it fetched. The chef, who was enjoying a 1961 Montrose with friends, sent a glass over to our table. Displaying neither the charm nor sweetness of the Grand Puy Lacoste, it possessed a hard, tough personality, but ... it’s a classic Château Montrose.

I can’t recommend this bistro’s cuisine highly enough. While well-heeled readers with deep pockets will find some amazingly old, well-stored Bordeaux available, I just wish there were more value picks on the wine list.


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