For purposes of the Hedonist Gazette, I have combined three dinners at L’Ami Louis since I essentially eat the same dishes on each visit, especially in the winter. It’s no secret that this is my favorite restaurant in the world, primarily because the finest raw materials are prepared simply. Prices are always controversial as it is as expensive as any luxurious restaurant in France, but everything ... the oysters, chickens, lamb, asparagus, potatoes, snails, scallops, etc. ... is remarkable, but at the same time, misunderstood for those looking for refined, intellectual, and sophisticated cuisine. This is eating at its finest, most simple and primordial manner. That is why I and thousands of others will pay astonishingly high prices for such exquisite simplicity.

To reiterate what I have written so many times in the past, there are certain dishes at L’Ami Louis that are the best I have had in a lifetime of fine eating. That includes the roast chicken, the baby, milk-fed leg of lamb (only available January through May), the huge Burgundy snails (the garlic butter and parsley take on their own subliminal qualitites), and the incredible cake of potatoes sautéed in goose fat, roasted in the oven, and then doused with copious quantities of fresh garlic and parsley. I can also add to that list L’Ami Louis’ asparagus, although on this visit, these colossal spears, which tend to melt in your mouth, were not quite as profound as usual. However, this was only the first week of the season, not when I usually eat them in mid-season. The confit and terrine of foie gras are merely excellent rather than profound.

As for the wines, I was fortunate to have the newly released 1999 Dom Pérignon, which is a spectacular Champagne. Based on one bottle, I would not rate it as highly as the 1996 or 1990, but it is much better than the 1998, and appears to have more body and richness than the 1995, also a top-notch vintage. The 1999 should have at least 20 years of life ahead of it. A magnum of the William Deutz 1996 Cuvée William Deutz Rosé was exquisite. Dry, yeasty, and nearly austere, it is a superb rosé made in an uncompromising fashion. The red wines were all Châteauneuf du Papes since these wines stand up to all the garlic butter and richness of this simplistic cuisine. The favorites included a spectacular Janasse 2000 Chaupin and the even richer, nearly perfect 2001 Janasse Vieilles Vignes. Speaking of perfection, the Marcoux 2003 Vieilles Vignes was extraordinary. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by sweet notes of blueberries, black raspberries, licorice, and truffles. The 2001 Marcoux Vieilles Vignes reveals more dusty tannin, but possesses fabulous opulence and richness. The 2003 Janasse Chaupin was totally closed, but with airing, more nuances appeared.

On three separate visits in February, I noticed something I have never before seen. There were no other Americans in the restaurant. It was completely occupied by the French, who seem to have rediscovered this extraordinary bistro opened in 1924. Other than ortolans, which are now illegal to catch and serve, I doubt anything has changed in the menu, service, or ambience of this tiny, 35-seat venue in the third arrondisement, not far from the Place de la République.

And hats off to long-time maitre d’hôtel Louis Gadby, who has been running the bistro since 1978, two years after I first ate there and became addicted. He received knighthood in France’s Legion of Honor in March, an unprecedented honor for a maitre d’hôtel, but not surprising as this is President Chirac’s favorite bistro as well!