I enjoyed a superb meal at this bistro in the middle of the charming village of Châteauneuf du Pape last September. On my return visit in February, I ate well, but not as thrillingly. The food included a good Provençal caillettes, meatballs made with about 50% fat as well as “mystery” meats and herbs. It is always wonderful with just about any southern Rhône Valley wine, and this was a very good rendition. One of my favorite dishes of Provence, the salted cod mixed with mashed potatoes, was slightly dry and lacking the flavor intensity I’ve had elsewhere. Nevertheless, it was a competent dish.

With that we drank a beautiful 2003 white Châteauneuf du Pape from Paul and Vincent Avril’s Clos des Papes, followed by the sumptuous 2003 red Châteauneuf du Pape from the same estate. The latter wine was pure raspberry and kirsch liqueur with gorgeous texture and opulence. The much younger, more backward Clos St.-Jean 2003 Châteauneuf du Pape Combe des Fous (about 60% old vine Grenache and the rest Syrah, Vaccarese, and Cinsault) was vigorous, rich, and impressively-endowed. It was somewhat tight and needed more aeration than we were able to give it over lunch. The wine list at this bistro is superb, especially for Châteauneuf du Pape, and the food is good to very good.