This casual Provençal restaurant/bistro changed ownership a few years ago, and it is now a mecca for thirsty and hungary southern Rhône wine enthusiasts. One of the most dramatic changes under the new ownership is the fabulous wine list, and the food is now classic, family-styled, country Provençal, which is often more difficult to obtain in Provence than one might suspect since most chefs try and be too sophisticated, refined, and intellectual. Amazingly flavorful, savory, and soulful dishes included the tomato and eggplant layered tart. Garlic and olive oil were mixed with the intense tomato and eggplant flavors of the region. That was followed by giant shrimp sauteed in olive oil and herbs, and two classic dishes, salted cod mixed with mashed potatoes in a custard-like style then broiled, and a long-marinated beef and Provençal herb dish.

All of these dishes worked splendidly with the rich, opulent Châteauneuf du Papes. The two bottles of 2003s differed only slightly in that the St.-Préfert was very open, rich, and ready to drink, and the Clos St.-Jean was deeper colored, more backward, and in need of additional time in the bottle. Both were full-bodied, powerful wines showing ripe, but not over-ripe characteristics. We then moved to the 1989 Henri Bonneau Réserve des Céléstins (which was priced remarkably low). The first bottle was corked, and the second bottle, while revealing splendid richness and intensity, displayed a slight hint of TCA contamination. While it was sensational, a lingering hint of damp cellar-like notes was a bit perplexing. Next we had a brilliant, fully mature but still beautifully rich 1978 Roger Sabon Cuvée Prestige, and an intense, full-bodied, heady, reasonably good 1959 Sabon Cuvée Prestige. Lastly, the proprietor of the restaurant offered us a bottle he found in the basement of a private home. The wine was believed to have been made between 1880 and 1910. Unfortunately, it was undrinkable, tasting like an oxidized Vendange Tardive from Alsace rather than a Châteauneuf du Pape.

All in all, this is a great place to eat and drink with beautiful views of the vineyards. We lingered on the open-air terrace until a major thunderstorm moved through the area. The stunningly rich wine list was matched by the equally rich, Provençal cuisine. I highly recommend it.