A brilliant meal at one of Joël Robuchon's restaurants in Paris, the food was exquisite, ranging from the extraordinary potato dish with foie gras and black truffles, to the wonderfully fresh, vibrant rouget, to his tour de force, the caramelized caille with black truffles.

The Champagne worked well, but the finest wine was the Grange des Pères (Syrah). It revealed a wonderful texture along with big, complex, peppery, cassis and truffle notes (or was that from the food?), and a medium to full-bodied, long finish. This is a plain, modern restaurant, with the brilliance of Robuchon obviously present, although he was not present in the kitchen when I was there.