La Tupina - Bordeaux, France
My favorite bistro for serious eating in Bordeaux is La Tupina, located in the old part of the city, not far from the river. The chef, Jean-Pierre Xiradakis, prepares the finest roast chicken in the region, and his famed omelet stuffed to the brim with black truffles is exquisite. For my tastes, La Tupina also has the best french fries in the Bordeaux region. All in all, this was a decadent feasting opportunity during my two week tasting trip to Bordeaux.
The wines began with a magnificent bottle of the 1990 Lynch Bages, one of the great vintages for this beloved Pauillac owned by Jean-Michel Cazes. It was paired with a corked bottle of 1990 Léoville Las-Cases. That was redeemed with a brilliant, fully mature yet beautifully elegant wine of first-growth quality, the 1985 Léoville Las-Cases, which has another decade of aging ability, although it is certainly à point, as the French would say. The 1986 Léoville Las-Cases was much younger, fuller-bodied, more muscular, and more packed and stacked in the mouth. A great young Léoville Las-Cases, it was the late Michel Delon's favorite vintage. He preferred it over even the 1982 and 1990. The 1986 should drink well for another 20+ years.
More articles from this author
Petit Louis Bistro
A lookalike, authentic French bistro, Petit Louis in Baltimore's Roland Park is the creation of restauranteurs par excellence Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman. You feel like you’ve walked into a bistro on the Left Bank of Paris when you enter Petit Louis. The food is classic bistro, and they do it well. All of the courses we had were flavorful, sometimes a trifle rustic, but delicious in their intensity. This was good comfort food prepared extremely well. The wines started with one of the major surprises for me over the last year, the 2006 sparking wine from Tony Soter in Oregon. I had this several times while I was out visiting Oregon, and I had always been impressed, but this is a 10-year-old sparking Rosé that is just sensational, and I’m talking world class—it’s that good. Something this good from France would cost at least two to three times as much, so kudos to Tony Soter. The 1995 Billaud-Simon Chablis Mont de Milieu was oxidized and undrinkable. The 1996 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos St. Urbain Rangen de Thann was sweet, and although it went well with the foie gras, it was just a little too unctuous and sweet a wine...