This is a sensational venue for refined, sophisticated as well as creative Dim Sum dishes (the dinner menu also offers very ambitious classic Cantonese cuisine) from Chef Ken Tam. Many observers believe Lai Wah Heen offers the finest Dim Sum in North America, and while I would put the best from Virginia’s Mark’s Duck House against it, there is really no need to compare the two. This was superb Dim Sum served in a beautiful restaurant in downtown Toronto. Moreover, the impeccable quality of the service, the ambiance, and the chef’s creativity put it in a class by itself in terms of high end Cantonese restaurants.

As for the wines, we had two wines produced under the new ownership of the huge Beaune négociant firm of Remoissenet. Both 2005s were brilliant white Burgundies, with theBienvenue slightly richer than the Bâtard. Both are young, classic efforts. It is good to see this négociant rebound under the new American leadership. The magnum of 1947 Cheval Blancaffirmed that this is “the wine” of the 20th century. I have had great bottles, volatile bottles, bottles that tasted port-like, and others that tasted like traditional Bordeaux. This example seemed incredibly young, which always raises the eyebrows given the Rodenstock scandal and all the articles that have appeared recently about fraudulent wines, a subject I first wrote about extensively nearly 15 years ago. The color was deep ruby with just a hint of lightening at the edge. It smelled like Cheval Blanc, and tasted like a ripe, full-bodied Cheval (which the 1947 is). However, at 60 years of age, it seemed remarkably youthful. Pristine bottles such as this do exist, so I have no way of knowing if this magnum had been slightly doctored. It was a fabulous wine, but everyone’s antennas were raised.

I highly recommend this restaurant, and I will certainly drink a 1947 Cheval Blanc anytime it’s served.