One of the temples of great shellfish and other assorted seafood; this is one of my favorite restaurants for lunch on a Friday or Saturday. In January, the oysters are out of this world. The meal began with the restaurant's classic fish soup, one of the finest renditions of that dish one will find in France. The wonderful lobster salad was filled with perfectly cooked lobster and vegetables in a homemade mayonnaise sauce. Then we ate ... embarrassing quantities of oysters! The conclusion was their plat de la résistance, a delicious Sole Meunière made from incredibly fresh sole (caught within 48 hours of being served) sautéed in butter, and served on the bone.
The wonderful 2002 Loires are just hitting the shelves, and Paul Cotat's Sancerre Beaujeu was marvelously opulent, with loads of tropical fruit, and the crisp minerality so essential to these wines. André Perret's 2001 Condrieu is a beauty, but seemed less vigorous than when I had it six months earlier.
More articles from this author
Petit Louis Bistro
A lookalike, authentic French bistro, Petit Louis in Baltimore's Roland Park is the creation of restauranteurs par excellence Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman. You feel like you’ve walked into a bistro on the Left Bank of Paris when you enter Petit Louis. The food is classic bistro, and they do it well. All of the courses we had were flavorful, sometimes a trifle rustic, but delicious in their intensity. This was good comfort food prepared extremely well. The wines started with one of the major surprises for me over the last year, the 2006 sparking wine from Tony Soter in Oregon. I had this several times while I was out visiting Oregon, and I had always been impressed, but this is a 10-year-old sparking Rosé that is just sensational, and I’m talking world class—it’s that good. Something this good from France would cost at least two to three times as much, so kudos to Tony Soter. The 1995 Billaud-Simon Chablis Mont de Milieu was oxidized and undrinkable. The 1996 Zind-Humbrecht Pinot Gris Clos St. Urbain Rangen de Thann was sweet, and although it went well with the foie gras, it was just a little too unctuous and sweet a wine...