Llugwy River Restaurant - North Wales
-
Neal Martin
- 03 Feb 2017 | Restaurants
During my stay in Betws-Y-Coed in Snowdonia, I
stayed at the Royal Oak Hotel. It is nothing luxurious but it suited a small
family down to a tee: the rooms spacious with wi-fi, a downstairs bar to chill
out during the evening and most importantly, the breakfast deserving of kings
with some of the finest sausages I have eaten in a long time (the quality of
sausage is directly proportional to the quality of hotel - fact).
On one evening I booked a table at their Llugwy
River Restaurant on the ground floor, principally because it stated that all
their meats were sourced from the Rhug Estate. This is one of the largest
organic farms in the UK, one of those historic estates handed down through
generations from one Lord to the next, until one generation decided to put that cast swathe of land to good use. (You can actually dine there, but I only had time to visit
the butchers.) The meat is expensive for sure, but then again it is less than what you
would pay at the numerous Michelin-starred restaurants that
procure its prime beef, lamb and pork. Dining at the hotel appeared a more wallet-friendly way to
sample their produce. Twenty-five quid for a set three-course meal is a bargain and
they allowed me to take my own bottle of wine, charging just a £5 corkage.
The waiter was almost apologetic when he informed me. He should see the amounts
that some restaurants charge to open a cork in London!
To finish, I was craving some Welsh cheeses
that came with a homemade fruit chutney and bara brith. I have always had a penchant for Welsh cheese and these were excellent. These included an extra strong local
Cheddar with the unsubtle title of Black Bomber, though my
favorite was Perl Wen, a Brie-like cheese from Caws Cenarth that I
had never come across before. A local specialty it would seem, it was creamy
in texture but had just the right amount of tangy flavor.
On the wine front, out of courtesy I ordered a wine off their list. I followed this up with a 2009 Château Siran, a Margaux that is probably still about 24 months too young, but is so delicious... what the hell? Layers of blackberry and cedar fruit on the nose, wonderful balance and great depth, this 2009 is far superior to the vintages that I tasted throughout the 1990s and early noughties - kudos to proprietor Edouard Miailhe who has really turned it around.
Overall this was a satisfying experience. No, it
is not going to win any Michelin stars, but what it delivered on the plate was
fresh and demonstrated well-sourced ingredients. Sure the menu plays it safe, but you were still licking the plate clean. For £25 per person, there is no arguing from these quarters.