While the Dim Sum at Mark’s Duck House always possesses an incredibly high level of quality, at this luncheon, it was even better than usual with the lobster, shrimp, and scallop dumplings as exquisite as can be.

The white wines included a tasty sparkling wine from Italy, made by the famous gun manufacturer, Beretta, a delicious 100% Roussanne cuvée, the 2006 Grand Veneur Châteauneuf du Pape La Fontaine Blanc, and a corked bottle of the brilliant 2005 Sancerre Clos La Noere from Vatan. The La Fontaine showed plenty of marmalade, orange rind, and nose petal characteristics in a full-bodied, crisp, fresh style.

As for the reds, there were a couple of out-ringers as it was a day of mostly gorgeous red Burgundies, all Pinot Noirs. The On the Edge 2005 Charbono stuck out like a sore thumb, being inky, simple, and monolithic. The 1999 Marcassin Pinot Noir Blue Slide Vineyardrevealed a touch of oxidation and was a bit flat, as if it had been poorly stored. All the other reds performed brilliantly. The 1997 Louis Jadot Musigny is just coming into its own, offering a complex nose of crushed rocks, spring flowers, and berry fruit presented in a medium-bodied, pure, rich style. Still tight and closed, but loaded, Jadot’s 2002 Chapelle Chambertin requires another 3-4 years of bottle age. It seemed more backward than the 2005 Echèzeaux from Jadot. While the latter cuvée is a gorgeous wine, it took a back seat to the wine of the day, the 2005 Domaine Dujac Echèzeaux. This riveting wine is a superb example of just how special the 2005 vintage can be. Marcassin’s sensational 1998 Estate Pinot Noir exhibits notes of truffles, underbrush, blackberries, and cherries in its full-bodied, opulent personality. Just hitting full maturity, the fresh 1998 was a complete contrast to the 1999 Marcassin Blue Slide Vineyard. Another brilliant domestic Pinot was the 2004 Peter Michael Moulin Rouge, which revealed tremendous opulence, richness, and that undeniable Santa Lucia Highlands density.

The blockbuster 2003 Cuvée de Vatican Châteauneuf du Pape Sixtine did not lose a step after the Pinots. I have not had this wine in a while, and I was surprised by how well-balanced it is. Made in a thick, juicy, full-bodied style with loads of intensity, it should drink nicely for another decade or more.