This was my first visit to Mark’s Duck House since Mr. and Mrs. Mark sold the restaurant. Thankfully, we did not see any changes, with the kitchen staff and the exterior wait staff remaining the same. The wines began with the limited cuvée of 1993 Dom Pérignon Cuvée Oenotheque. It smelled terrific (I’d give it a mid-90-point score for aromatics), but in the mouth, it was very acidic and too tart. I have never been a big fan of Dom Pérignon’s regular 1993, so it is not surprising that the Oenotheque didn’t do much for me. I gave only superficial attention to the other whites as I wanted to concentrated on the reds. However, the Zind-Humbrecht 2000 Pinot Gris Clos St.-Urban is still a young, but powerful white that needs to be served with foie gras or extremely rich, heavily sauced fish dishes. It is that intense. Much lighter is the citrusy 1995 Trimbach Riesling Clos St.-Hune, one of my favorite dry Rieslings. For some reason, this bottle did not wow me to the extent I had hoped.

The red wines began with two magnums I had provided for this community endeavor. The 2003 Ponsot Clos St.-Denis Vieilles Vignes started off totally shut down and tannic, but within an hour, it was profoundly rich and aromatic, displaying sweet tannin as well as loads of plummy fruit intermixed with hints of figs, blueberries, underbrush, fresh mushrooms, and forest floor. This full-bodied, powerful wine is very Morey-St.-Denis-like. It was the second magnum to be finished by the thirsty group of attendees. The first was the best wine of the day, a magnum of 2003 Clos des Papes Châteauneuf du Pape. This wine goes from strength to strength. It is a modern day version of a Clos des Papes trying to imitate the 1990 Rayas. Gorgeous kirsch and raspberry fruit are presented in a full-bodied, seamless style with no notion of over-ripeness, a full-bodied, powerful personality, gorgeous, fresh acidity, fine definition, and a long, heady finish. It is more reminiscent of the 1990 Clos des Papes or 1990 Rayas than any other Clos des Papes I have tasted. Some of the criticism that has been leveled at this cuvée is either the result of bottle or palate variation, as this was by far the most popular wine at the table.

The other Châteauneuf du Papes all acquitted themselves well. The 1998 Bosquet des Papes Tradition was somewhat over-whelmed by the gorgeously fragrant, full-bodied, chocolate, resin, and kirsch-dominated 1990 Clos du Mont Olivet Cuvée Papet. I have had virtually perfect bottles of the latter wine, and while this was not one of them, it was still an exquisite offering. It is one of the finest wines made at this estate over the last twenty years. The biggest surprise of the day was the showing of the 2004 Villeneuve Châteauneuf du Pape Vieilles Vignes. This offering displayed superb richness, dark mountain berry notes intermixed with garrigue, pepper, and incense, beautiful purity, and a long, layered finish.

The other Provençal wine tasted was the Domaine Tempier 1998 Migoua from Bandol. Fashioned from 100% Mourvèdre, it exhibited smoke game and beefy notes intermixed with licorice, black fruits, earth, and truffles. This young, vibrant wine will be at its finest in 4-5 years, and should drink well for two decades.

The two northern Rhônes served were both young and vibrant. The 1989 Chave Hermitagewas more backward than the 1990 I had a week earlier. It reveals classic crème de cassis notes along with notions of bay leaf, earth, tobacco, and spice. This deep, full-bodied effort should reach its plateau of maturity in the next few years. Even more backward (surprisingly so since it is already 16 years of age) is Chaptouier’s 1991 Côte Rôtie La Mordorée. Classic Côte Rôtiescents of bacon fat, black olives, tapenade, tar, truffles, cassis, and cherries jump from the glass of this young, full-bodied, powerful effort. It will be a profound bottle of wine when it hits full maturity in 4-5 years.

All things considered, this was once again a terrific way to spend an afternoon! As they say, living well is the best revenge!