My Daughter's Birthday Dinner

On my daughter's birthday, I pulled out two wines from her birth year, followed by two half bottles of 1982 Calon Ségur. The 1987 François Jobard Meursault Les Genevrières remains a wine of delicacy, crispness, and leesy, mineral-like flavors. I wouldn't push it much further, but it probably has five years of life remaining. The soft but surprisingly successful 1987 vintage in Côte Rôtie is brilliantly exhibited by Guigal's La Mouline. Notes of espresso, peaches, figs, currants, and cassis are followed by a medium-bodied, moderately weighty La Mouline with a seamless velvety texture. It has been fully mature for a number of years, but shows no color degradation or drying tannin. The 1982 Calon Ségur is finally coming out of its long, dormant/funky period. Both half bottles, decanted two hours in advance, were spectacular. This is undoubtedly the finest Calon Ségur after 1947. I have high hopes the 1995 will come close to this level.

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